Persianpet International

If your dog is sprayed by a skunk, don’t reach for the tomato juice. There are more effective-and less messy-solutions to this formidable dog stink problem.

Before You Try to Fix the Dog Stink

First, put on rubber gloves and old clothes. Skunk oil is potent and long lasting and its removal from your dog requires close contact with a very bad smell. Dress accordingly.

Note: The faster you tackle the dog skunk problem the better. The longer the oils sit on your dog’s fur and skin, the more difficult it will be to remove. If you ignore a heavy dose of skunk spray, your dog may smell for months.

Often, dogs get sprayed in face during a skunk encounter. This can cause mouth and throat inflammation, eye irritation and even temporary blindness. Rinse your dog’s face with plenty of plain water, gently rubbing the eyes and mouth with a rag. Repeat several times to remove as much of the oil as possible. If available, flush your dog’s eyes with sterile saline solution (plain contact lens solution will work) to soothe and cleanse the eye.

To prevent spreading the oils all over your dog, try to determine where on the body the spray is concentrated. If you can’t tell, that’s okay. Just wet your dog, wash thoroughly and then use a de-skunking preparation.

There are several commercial de-skunking products available in pet supply stores. If you have a product on hand, use it according to label directions. Alternatively, you can make a homemade de-skunking treatment.

The Best Recipe: Baking Soda, Peroxide and Dish Soap

• Mix 1 quart hydrogen peroxide with 1/4 cup baking soda, 2 tsp. Dawn® liquid soap and 1 gallon of warm water.
• Wet your dog thoroughly.
• Work into the fur and leave the solution on for five to ten minutes and rinse.
• Repeat if needed.
• Do not store this mixture in a closed container.

Vinegar and Dish Soap

Sponge the affected area with distilled white vinegar then wash with diluted Dawn® dish soap. Do not get either product in your dog’s eyes. Keep a bottle of equal parts vinegar and water on hand for odor touch-ups.

Apple Cider Vinegar Variation

• Mix together 1 qt. hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda, 2 tsp. Dawn® dish detergent, 1 quart apple cider vinegar, 1/2 cup powdered OxyClean® and 1 qt. warm water.
• Mix in a bucket and sponge it onto your dog’s fur, avoiding the eyes.
• Leave this mixture on for 5 to 10 minutes then rinse.
• This recipe may bleach dark fur.

Mouthwash Treatment

Pour Listerine® or its equivalent into a spray bottle and wet down your dog. Leave this on for at least five minutes then rinse.

Toothpaste

If there is nothing else available, try mixing ¼ cup of toothpaste in 1 qt. of warm water. Mix and apply to your dog’s fur. Let sit 5 minutes then rinse.

Caution: Skunks bites can transmit rabies. If a skunk has bitten your dog, contact your veterinarian at once.
Tip: Reduce your yard’s attractiveness to skunks by keeping garbage cans tightly covered. Skunks are also attracted to fallen fruit, nuts and birdseed and compost.

Skunks and dogs have a long and stinky history. You can take steps to protect your dog from an encounter, but be prepared-just in case.

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A flea infestation may be difficult to get rid of, due to the flea life cycle.

A pet with parasites sheds fleas and flea eggs in the environment where he lives. These eggs may develop and infest the environment, even after your pet has been treated; the eggs develop into larvae and pupae, and these hatch into adults. Larvae may survive for up to 1 year in a suitable environment.

It is critical to get rid of the fleas in your home at the same time you treat your pet.

1. Vacuuming

Fleas, eggs, larvae and pupae can be absorbed by a vacuum cleaner. A flea is a minuscule black/brown insect that can be visible. Fleas also leave feces behind, which consist of dry blood.

Vacuum daily. It is important to clean every corner of your house, including doors and windows, and on carpets where fleas can thrive.

Put a pet flea collar in the vacuum bag and empty the bag after each usage, as fleas may hatch and develop in the vacuum cleaner as well. You should dispose of the bag after each vacuuming. Make sure you get rid of the bag safely.

2. Insecticides

Get an over the counter insecticide or contact a professional exterminator.

Follow the instructions carefully and quarantine the area for a few hours or even half a day, to make sure your pets or children don’t inhale or swallow the insecticides.

Note that the insecticide will only kill the adult fleas. Re-apply the insecticides every 2 weeks, so that you will kill the possible newly developed fleas.

3. Bleach

Flea eggs are larvae are resistant to household products. Bleach can destroy flea eggs and larvae. Clean the floors, your pet’s crate and the bathrooms.

Keep your pet away from bleach or areas that you have recently cleaned, for at least 3 hours after application.

4. Washing

Wash the bedding, drapes, pet clothes or removable furniture covers frequently.

Change your pet’s bedding; it is advisable to throw out the infested sheets and food bowls.

5. Steam Cleaning

As flea larvae and eggs can stick to carpets and may be difficult to remove with a vacuum, you can steam clean the carpets.

The hot air will kill the fleas instantly, helping the pupae and the larvae to hatch. After cleaning the carpets, apply some insecticide or anti-flea powder on the carpets.

6. Flea Repellent Sprays

Use flea repellent sprays in your house and garden. These will keep the fleas away from your home and pets.

7. Anti-Flea Powders

Purchase anti-flea powders that can be used on furniture and carpets. Opt for powders that dehydrate the fleas and prevent the larvae and eggs from developing.

Only 10% of the total number of fleas live on your pet; the rest are in your house. This is why the cleaning is essential. To prevent re-infestation of your pet, get some flea medication and administer it on a monthly basis. Get a flea repellent collar and groom your pet several times per week.

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Kitten diarrhea may not seem like a big deal. But considering the sensitivity of the small cat’s body, this can be a big deal. Diagnosing the cause behind a kitten’s diarrhea can help him recover quickly.

Diarrhea in Kittens

Diarrhea is typically defined as loose bowel movements. A kitten’s stool is already softer than an adult cat’s, so diarrhea is sometimes determined by the increase in the amount of bowel movements and stool. The color and smell of a kitten’s stool may be different when a small cat has diarrhea as well.

If a kitten has had diarrhea for more than 24 hours, he should be seen by a veterinarian. This is especially true if the stool has blood in it, or is black and tar-like, or the kitten has a fever.

Causes of Kitten Diarrhea and Diagnosis

When a kitten is in the process of weaning, the switch between milk and solid foods can be initially hard on his system. The ingredients in the new food can also be the cause of the kitten’s diarrhea if he is sensitive or allergic to one of the ingredients.

Since diarrhea is so dangerous to a kitten because of the risk of dehydration, the young cat should be seen by a veterinarian. The veterinarian will want to know about the volume of the stool and the frequency of his bowel movements. He will also want to know if the kitten is straining to relieve himself, if there is any blood or mucous in the stool, if the kitten has lost weight, if there has been an increase in gas, and if the kitten has been vomiting. The kitten’s temperature and heart rate will be measured, and the vet will also look for signs of anemia and jaundice.

A vet will complete a physical examination and conduct a fecal floatation test to check for parasites. Other cultures of a kitten’s stool may be performed to look for a bacterial or viral infection. A complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel will be run to look for such infections and other diseases that would cause a kitten to have diarrhea, like cancer. Blood tests would also be able to find the presence of toxins a kitten may have ingested.

A veterinarian may check to see if the kitten is suffering from irritable bowel syndrome or an intestinal obstruction. X-rays or ultrasound images may be taken to diagnose this or abnormalities in the kitten’s anatomy. If needed, a kitten may need to have a colonoscopy or surgery using an endoscope to verify the reasons behind his diarrhea.

After the Diarrhea Diagnosis

Treatment for a kitten’s diarrhea will be dependent upon the final diagnosis and the cause of the stomach upset. A vet may recommend the kitten be treated with medications and/or a change in diet. His fluids will need to be replaced if he is dehydrated. In more extreme cases, surgery will be needed for conditions such as intestinal blockages, cancer or anatomical abnormalities.

Kitten diarrhea can be a big deal or not. Watchful, waiting is the key when it comes to a kitten’s stomach upset to see if he requires medical care for a serious illness.

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Dog skin is often susceptible to various skin conditions, collectively known as dermatitis. The skin and coat often reveals the overall health of the pet. Skin diseases are categorized as primary skin conditions and secondary skin conditions. Primary skin conditions appear externally and don’t involve internal organs like secondary skin conditions. Since the symptoms influence the type and severity of disease present, pet owners should notice any unusual symptoms and seek prompt vet help.

Causes of Skin Diseases in Dogs

One of the most common types of skin diseases that occur in pets is attributed to flea and tick infections, mite infestation or parasite infections. Other skin conditions develop due to allergic reactions, fungal infections and cysts. Cysts in particular are non-cancerous lumps that develop under the dog’s skin and are tested for malignancy during diagnosis. Since fungal, bacterial and parasite infections are well controlled with medication, its best to initiate early treatment to avoid discomfort associated with individual skin diseases.

Symptoms of Skin Disease     

Although some pets may develop accompanying symptoms due to internal organ involvement, most pets exhibit symptoms that can be easily noticed on the surface of the skin. Crusty skin, thickening of the skin, skin pigmentation and itchiness are some of the commonly occurring symptoms. Others include, skin inflammation, skin sores or lesions accompanied by discharge.

Skin cysts appear as tiny lumps that can be felt under the skin during palpation. In order to determine the severity of the skin disease present the vet will conduct various diagnostic tests. Since the symptoms of skin disorders are common to many conditions, the vet has to obtain an accurate diagnosis to prescribe medication that treats not only the symptoms, but also the primary cause of infection.

Diagnosis of Dog Skin Diseases

The vet will perform a complete physical examination of the dog and check for lumps by palpating the body or affected sites. Pet owners should inform the vet about pre-existing medical conditions and if the dog has suffered from similar skin problems in the past. The location of skin infection may also indicate specific skin diseases such as ear mite infections that develop around the pets ears. After careful physical examination, the vet will conduct blood tests to reveal abnormalities present in the components of blood. A skin scraping tests is performed to obtain a laboratory analysis of a sample of the pet’s skin or cells.

Laboratory analysis will reveal infections such as mange, cheyletiella and flea infections. Fungal infections will be determined after careful examination of the skin under certain lights. If the diagnosis doesn’t reveal any parasites or fungal infection, the pet will be tested for allergies. This involves trial and error elimination of potential allergens in the dog’s environment along with skin allergen testing. Apart from these tests the vet may perform additional tests to confirm diagnosis.

Other Tests Include:

• Culture tests
• Biopsy
• X-rays
• Laboratory analysis of discharge
• Diet elimination

Treatment of Skin Disease in Dogs

The vet will prescribe certain anti-inflammatory medicines along with topical solutions to treat dogs suffering from skin inflammation and itchy skin. Other treatment options include antibiotic medication to control bacterial infections.

Although there are several commercially available topical products that soothe skin and bring relief from various skin conditions, it’s best to avoid the use of over the counter drugs before determining the underlying cause of skin infection.

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Pet owners should be involved in the care of newborn puppies. In addition, the mother should also be cared for, as she will be able to keep her puppies well nourished if provided with good food and plenty of water. There are a few things that pet owners can do to prepare in advance for the birth of puppies.

Preparation for Birthing

It’s best to keep a large box, preferably wooden, to keep newborn puppies comfortable and warm. The box should be lined with absorbent material that should be changed frequently and disposed after each use. Newborn puppies have to be licked clean after birth by the mother. Clean towels are necessary to assist the mother in wiping the newborn puppies, especially when the litter is large.

Newborn Puppy Care

• Puppies that haven’t been cleaned should be wiped with a soft, clean towel.
• Puppies should be placed close to the mother in order to initiate nursing.
• Prompt nursing also helps the mother’s contractions.
• Puppies may be individually weighed at the time of birth, in order to determine their health in the forthcoming weeks.
• Although the mother will ensure proper puppy care, puppies that are slower or move away from the litter should be kept close to the mother.
• Puppies that haven’t been cleaned by the mother after urination or defecation may be wiped with a soft, moist towel.
• It’s also best to keep the mother and her puppies in a temperature controlled room.
• Pets may prefer heated or warm blankets.
• Pet owners should also observe if the puppies’ genitals are licked to stimulate normal urination and defecation.

Care for Birthing Mothers

It’s very important to look after the mother so that she maintains her strength to care for her puppies. The nutritional intake will increase soon after delivery, and most pets should be fed nearly three times the amount of food given prior to pregnancy. If the dog is accustomed to a particular vitamin, it may be continued unless otherwise directed by the vet. High quality puppy food and a fresh supply of water are necessary to keep her healthy. Healthy mothers should be able to nurse the litter every two hours.

Signs of Healthy Puppies

Puppies that don’t nurse well appear thin and weak. Sick puppies should also be taken to the vet for a check if they suffer from loose stools or if they cry extensively. Puppies that are normal and healthy gain weight in the first 10 days after birth. They also appear content and sleep without difficulty. Within 21 days, the puppies will show interest in their mother’s food. Normal food should be incorporated in little amounts during the weaning process.

Puppy Vaccinations

It’s also important to get puppies acclimatized to the environment and people as they advance in age. This will prevent aggressive behavior and help puppies in their socialization skills. Puppies should be registered and taken for vaccinations at the age recommended by the vet. The dosage and administration of vaccines may differ, although most vets prefer to start vaccination at 6 weeks of age. Since puppies have low immune system functioning, they should be kept in clean environments and away from all other pets living in the same household. Children should also be taught proper hygiene after play with puppies.

Puppies grow at a speedy rate and with proper home care, most grow into healthy and strong adult dogs within a few years.

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Owners of diabetic cats should be familiar with the signs of feline diabetic neuropathy, which is a rare complication of diabetes that can cause nerve damage, paralysis and even death in affected cats.

How Diabetes Affects Cats

Diabetes is a disease that affects a cat’s endocrine system, which is the part of her body that helps keep her metabolism operating properly. Diabetic cats are unable to produce adequate insulin, a hormone that helps the body absorb glucose that it uses for quick energy. As a result, blood sugar levels are excessively high.

Diabetic cats are excessively thirsty, and they urinate frequently. If you notice your cat’s water intake has increased dramatically, or if she’s using the litter box more often, set up an appointment with your veterinarian’s office for your pet to be evaluated for diabetes.

How Diabetic Neuropathy Affects Cats

Feline diabetic neuropathy can occur early in the course of a cat’s diabetes, or it may develop well after the cat has been diagnosed as diabetic. Neuropathy is a more common side effect of diabetes in pet cats than in pet dogs. It is caused by an overabundance of blood glucose, which damages the sheaths on the peripheral nerves in the cat’s body. The nerves in the cat’s hind legs are particularly vulnerable to damage from diabetic neuropathy.

Without proper control and treatment of the underlying diabetes, feline diabetic neuropathy can result in gangrene, which can lead to amputation or even death.

Signs of Feline Diabetic Neuropathy

The signs of feline diabetic neuropathy may also be the first indications to a cat owner that his or her pet has a serious health problem since the initial signs of diabetes can be easily overlooked.

The first indication that your cat has diabetic neuropathy may be her inability to stand correctly. Instead of standing on her toes as cats normally do, a cat with diabetic neuropathy stands on her hocks. The lower parts of her back legs will lie on the ground as she stands. She will also develop weakness in her hind legs and may drag a leg or paw as she walks. Her feet can slip out from under her as she walks, or she may have difficulty rising from a lying or sitting position. She may lie down more frequently that she used to, especially after taking short walks.

Over time, a cat with feline diabetic neuropathy will begin to walk in a crouch. In the most advanced cases, all four of the cat’s legs are affected. Other signs of diabetic neuropathy in cats include loss of bladder or bowel control.

Treatment Options for Diabetic Neuropathy

The type of treatment you pursue for feline diabetic neuropathy depends in part on the severity of your cat’s neuropathy. Mild cases may resolve themselves in a few months once the cat’s blood sugar levels are brought under control, while other cases may require supplemental B12 dosages or other medications to resolve the situation.

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Cat ear hygiene is an important part of every feline health regimen. Poor hygiene and warm, dark and moist environments like the ear canal can easily lead to ear infections. Keeping your cat’s ears clean can help prevent bacterial and fungal ear infections and parasites like ear mites by removing ear wax and debris.

Recognizing a Healthy Cat Ear

Your cat’s inner ear and ear canal should be a light pink color with little ear wax or buildup. A small amount of light brown ear wax isn’t a problem but dark, bloody or discolored ear wax is a sign of a problem and should be addressed by a veterinarian. Odor, head shaking excessive itching and rubbing of the head could indicate an ear infection, allergy symptoms, parasites such as ear mites, or a blocked ear.

If your cat is in a great deal of pain your vet may have to anesthetize the cat in order to examine and clean the ears, and to make a proper diagnosis. After a trip to the vet’s office you may need to apply ear drops or medication to your cat’s ears and this can be done using the same method as outlined below. Allows follow veterinarian instructions first and remember to continue to use medication for as long as it has been prescribed, even if symptoms appear to have cleared.

Removing Cat Ear Wax

1. Place your cat on a flat surface or in your lap. Keep in mind that your clothes may get dirty during the ear cleaning process. Place your arm across the cat’s body to hold him still while holding his head with your hand. It may help to hold the cat by his scruff between the ears and shoulder blades to keep the cat steady.
2. Examine the cat’s ears by rolling back the ear flap and looking for redness, inflammation, discharge or excess debris.
3. To clean your cat’s ear of debris and ear wax, ask your veterinarian about a good ear cleaner. Squirt the cleaner into the cat’s ear canal, making sure not to stick the bottle more than a few millimeters into the canal.
4. Massage the base of the ear for 30 to 45 seconds to loosen ear wax.
5. Wipe up fluid, discharge and debris with a cotton ball. Do not stick Q-tips or cotton balls into the ear canal; this could push debris further into the ear canal and cause damage.
6. Allow your cat to shake his head as this will most likely loosen more debris. Wipe the excess fluid and discharge again with a cotton ball.
7. Repeat the process in the opposite ear.
8. If your cat behaves and isn’t fussy, offer a treat during or after the ear cleaning routine.

This ear cleaning habit should be started when your kitten is 8 weeks old with a mild cleanser recommended by your vet’s office. By starting a weekly ear routine your cat will be comfortable having his ears examined, making ear cleaning and application of medication easy and painless.

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Preparation for Birthing

It’s best to keep a large box, preferably wooden, to keep newborn puppies comfortable and warm. The box should be lined with absorbent material that should be changed frequently and disposed after each use. Newborn puppies have to be licked clean after birth by the mother. Clean towels are necessary to assist the mother in wiping the newborn puppies, especially when the litter is large.

Newborn Puppy Care

• Puppies that haven’t been cleaned should be wiped with a soft, clean towel.
• Puppies should be placed close to the mother in order to initiate nursing.
• Prompt nursing also helps the mother’s contractions.
• Puppies may be individually weighed at the time of birth, in order to determine their health in the forthcoming weeks.
• Although the mother will ensure proper puppy care, puppies that are slower or move away from the litter should be kept close to the mother.
• Puppies that haven’t been cleaned by the mother after urination or defecation may be wiped with a soft, moist towel.
• It’s also best to keep the mother and her puppies in a temperature controlled room.
• Pets may prefer heated or warm blankets.
• Pet owners should also observe if the puppies’ genitals are licked to stimulate normal urination and defecation.

Care for Birthing Mothers

It’s very important to look after the mother so that she maintains her strength to care for her puppies. The nutritional intake will increase soon after delivery, and most pets should be fed nearly three times the amount of food given prior to pregnancy. If the dog is accustomed to a particular vitamin, it may be continued unless otherwise directed by the vet. High quality puppy food and a fresh supply of water are necessary to keep her healthy. Healthy mothers should be able to nurse the litter every two hours.

Signs of Healthy Puppies

Puppies that don’t nurse well appear thin and weak. Sick puppies should also be taken to the vet for a check if they suffer from loose stools or if they cry extensively. Puppies that are normal and healthy gain weight in the first 10 days after birth. They also appear content and sleep without difficulty. Within 21 days, the puppies will show interest in their mother’s food. Normal food should be incorporated in little amounts during the weaning process.

Puppy Vaccinations

It’s also important to get puppies acclimatized to the environment and people as they advance in age. This will prevent aggressive behavior and help puppies in their socialization skills. Puppies should be registered and taken for vaccinations at the age recommended by the vet. The dosage and administration of vaccines may differ, although most vets prefer to start vaccination at 6 weeks of age. Since puppies have low immune system functioning, they should be kept in clean environments and away from all other pets living in the same household. Children should also be taught proper hygiene after play with puppies.

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The best way to control dog biting is to take preventative measures from a young age. Biting problems begin in puppyhood when a dog mouths objects and people to explore the world around him. If the owner does not teach the young dog that biting is a negative behavior, it can carry on into adulthood. Some dogs bite out of aggression and can cause serious injury. The following tips can be used to help modify behaviors that lead to biting.

1. Yelp When Puppy Bites

When a young puppy bites his mother during nursing or bites another puppy with too much pressure during playtime the result is a high pitched yelp. If you are playing with your puppy, or he is exploring and bites, make a high pitched sound that sounds like you are in pain. The puppy should back off and seem concerned. If the puppy continues to bite after you have yelped, stop the playtime immediately and walk away. Your puppy will begin to associate biting with no attention from you and bite less. With proper training, puppies grow out of mouthing when they are done teething (usually between six months and one year of age).

2. Use a Bite Deterrent

Products such as Bitter Apple Spray can be applied to your hands during playtime. These sprays are harmless to your pet and taste terrible, deterring them from biting or mouthing. Bitter Apple and other pet safe bite and chew deterrents can be found at your local pet store.

3. Provide Proper Chew Toys

Teething puppies often mouth or bite because teething is causing them discomfort. Provide your dog with safe, durable toys to chew on. Find toys specifically made for puppies and, as always, only allow your puppy to play with toys under your supervision to prevent choking.

4. Establish Dominance with Older Dogs

In many cases, an older dog will have problems with biting. A dog who is older when purchased or adopted, or allowed to bite as a puppy, may have not have had the training as a puppy or may bite out of fear or aggression. It is vital that your dog understands that you are alpha and you are the one in charge. To do so requires changes in every day activities. Never allow your dog on your bed or couch. Doing so allows him to think of himself as your equal. Feed your dog only after you and your family have eaten. In a pack, the alpha dogs always eat first. When walking, your dog should always heal. Never allow your dog to pull or lead the way. If you have made it clear to your dog that you are in charge and you still have difficulties with biting and insubordination, contact a qualified dog trainer. If your dog is older, it will be more difficult to train this behavior out of him so patience is key. Work with him every day and seek professional guidance.

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If you have barking puppies, it’s important to start training as soon as possible before they develop a habit that will be harder to stop. As with adult dogs, barking is usually an indicator of an underlying problem, which is imperative to fix before the barking will stop.

1. Ignore It

Most puppies are barking for attention. If you give your puppy attention when he barks, the barking will continue. Don’t yell at him, talk to him or look at him. Don’t pick him up or put your hand around his mouth. All of these responses are rewarding to your puppy.

Instead, stand still and calmly ignore your dog, leave the room or put your dog in timeout. If you choose to leave the room, do so quietly and close the door. Return when your dog is quiet and reward him with attention. If you choose to put him in timeout, leave a thin, short leash on him while you are home. If he barks, grab the leash and move him, without touching or talking, to his timeout place. Let him out when he stops barking.

2. Prevent Over-Arousal

Puppies need to learn young how to calm themselves. You can help them learn by only allowing them they love when they are calm. Make them sit and calmly wait at the door before beginning a walk. Make them sit and wait before putting down the food bowl.

This is important for barking puppies because puppies bark when they are over-aroused. Thus, you want to teach them calm behaviors. When playing, make them take breaks if they are barking. Only throw the toy when they are calm. End all games if they bark or nip by dropping the toy and leaving the room.

Keeping a leash on them when you are home and using timeouts for rowdy puppies is also very effective.

3. Ease Anxiety

If your puppy is barking because he is afraid, that’s good information. This means he needs more proper socialization. For example, if he is barking at skateboards, take him outside and stay at a safe distance from skateboarders. You should be far enough that he notices but does not bark. Reward him for looking away from the skateboard and turning to you for only a second.

As the skateboard gets closer, increase the treats. If he starts barking, walk calmly away from the stimulus until he can focus on you again. Start training again at that point. Don’t ever punish anxiety. Just train your dog that he has nothing to fear.

Move slowly. If your dog is reacting during sessions, you are moving too fast.

4. Put Barking on Command

If your puppy barks a lot, put it on command. This means you can start it and stop it when you like. When your puppy is barking, say “speak” and praise. When he stops, say “stop” and reward with treats. Practice this when you play. This will help you control your puppy’s arousal.

Puppy barking is common and can be a good means of communication. However, if it starts to get excessive, a little training will help your puppy learn to calm down and stop the barking.

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